The journey continues and we leave Hanoi behind us and move on to Tam Coc, Ninh Bihn. We booked a transfer which picked us up from the hotel, we said our goodbye’s to the one and only iconic Julie J. (ohh boy will she be missed!) before heading to Tam Coc. Where, yet again, 2 iconic characters were waiting for us. After a 2 hour drive, we made it to Tam Coc. The vibe of the town gave me very much Kandy, Sri Lanka vs. Tulum, Mexico vibes. Conclusion, a good overall relaxing vibe I’d say. We got dropped off a 5 minute walk from our homestay, we had to walk the rest and luckily for us, we also left the busy and chaotic streets of Hanoi behind us and made room for a, slightly, less busy town (trust me when I say that the honking and the scooters driving like little maniacs, is just the Vietnamese style of driving and something I’m not sure I’d ever get used to lol). When we reached the homestay and we were greeted by our 2 (well… technically 3 if you count our little furry friend Tien Tien) lovely hosts – Pinky and Larry (whether the old man his real name was actually Larry, we’ll never know, but he was an absolute gem of a man).
We were shown to our room, got settled in and then went straight into town to get something to drink and eat, beer for hydration and food, well I guess stay away from the hangry mood I was close to getting paired with the humid heat and my period… ohhh the joys of being “just a girl”. Anyway, enough of me being dramatic (call it my specialty), we opted for 2 beers, spring rolls, satay and fried noodles I have to say, this rapidly became our signature order throughout the trip. We’ve eaten so many spring rolls that I’m convinced our body percentage is at least 30% spring roll. Whilst I’m writing this in my London flat I WISH I could have a cheap beer and some noodles and spring rolls as a snack. Unfortunately for me, beers, noodles (unless you have cup-a-noodles) and the lot are not the cheapest in London and it is the end of the month. So… instead I’m nibbling on my crackers with hummus (homemade, as I refuse to pay £2 lol) and sipping my water #brokelife or #healthylife you decide (I guess a bit of both in this case).
So after we finished our food we went back to the hotel and decided to rent a scooter and blend in with the Vietnamese lifestyle. Off we went, officially blending in with the Vietnamese traffic, trying not to get us killed (yes, I had Thomas on the back of the scooter, navigating and holding on for dear life), whilst I was also holding on to my own helmet as it broke just before driving off (ohhh to be living on the edge). So, with one hand on the wheel and one holding on to my helmet we went to see the wonders of Ninh Bihn – call me adventurous Annie minus the slight panic moments at every corner of the street, or roundabouts. It was close to sunset and we drove through the rice fields which was surreal, the feeling of the beautiful scenery which surrounded us and driving on a scooter in the Vietnamese countryside, was and still is, in my opinion the ultimate feeling of pure joy and freedom (I know, I know call me a Shaman Traveler. You know the type who went to Bali once and is now all of the sudden a person of the world). Anyway, moving on, we arrived at Mua Cave and little did we know, that to get to the top, we had to climb 500 steps of steep and uneven bricks. I just googled how long it would take the average person to climb the Mua Cave, apparently its around 20 minutes. Well Shirley… I don’t know whether we are talking about the same cave? But, I can tell you that it most certainly, did not take us 20 minutes. No. Lies, all lies! Maybe if you’re a mountain goat, which btw we did see during the track up, but it was closer to 60 minutes. My god what a track. So, 10 liters of sweat and tears out of the system and losing my entire personality half way the climb, we ended up with one of the most stunning views (and no Thomas, I’m actually not talking about the hot shirtless Aussies 😉) – definitely worth all the blood, sweat and tears.
Another day, another scooter drive down to Trang An where we went for a boat tour and had, yet again, an icon person who showed us all spots on the Trang An River. The views were simply stunning and it felt like a different world. Our captain of the day? Lan. Or, as Thomas and I immediately nicknamed her: Lanny Loo. A woman of little words, but the side-eye she kept giving Thomas every single time he wanted to show of his rowing skills? Iconic. 10/10 I would trust the woman with my life, but maybe not with my secrets. After the Trang An River tour we continued our day trip (yes, still on the scooter) to the Bai Dinh Temple. Again, absolutely stunning. The only thing a little less stunning, was me feeling absolutely knackered and broken (from the heat and yes physically and financially thank you very much), I think at this point we were both struck by the heat, dehydration and a couple of busy days catching up with our, not so young, bodies anymore (I know, I sound like a granny. But trust me the closer you get to 30, the less my body seems to handle #TheStruggleOfAging). So for the next 2 days we decided to take it easy, I’d say they were probably the 2 less innovative days of the trip. Also because we travelled further down into Central Vietnam and after a midnight train drive and little to no sleep (well, mainly for Thomas) we arrived in Phong Nha.
So yes, it’s clear to say we survived Tam Coc, lived our best spring-roll-fueled lives, sweated out enough liquid to fill the Trang An river, had maybe a couple of meltdowns along the way, but overall we had an amazing time in Tam Coc – wouldn’t miss it for the world! Next stop? Phong Nha, where the chaos continues. Because lets be realistic, with us does it ever not?
Love,
Rose




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